The Comfort of Food in Times of Need
Cristina Pellegrino
Cookbooks are decorated with text that surround the colors, hidden inside each page. Not only do these pictures and text provide society with an understanding of how to prepare food, but they also insinuate who we should be. General Mills, the creator of Betty Crocker, took one of the biggest steps in culinary history by writing a set of text that guided housewives all over America how to prepare a well-balanced meal in order to keep the whole family balanced.
Agnes White, the writer of this book also represents the face and voice of Betty Crocker. Betty Crocker was created in the twenties to bring a personalized response to consumer’s dire questions about the mysteries of the kitchen. “The introduction, in the form of a letter headed, ‘Dear Friends,’ promises to ‘bring a new high standard to the home-making art.’ The theme of renewing and improving a venerable tradition continues through the text, emphasizing new, modern approaches to creating traditional foods.” (Horner) The First Lady of Food represents a cheery All-American woman providing hope for American housewives to be the perfect woman for their husbands and children. Betty Crocker’s Picture Cookbook was published in January of 1950 and quickly became a national best seller. From household to household this cookbook was passed as housewives all alike, learned to create new dishes and have their burning questions answered on why their cake refused to rise. While women were the primary audience of this Heaven-sent cookbook, men were getting back into work after returning from World War II.
In order to effectively understand how Betty Crocker’s Picture Cookbook is a piece of rhetoric, we must understand that rhetoric is situational; that in order for there to be some important piece of text in our society, an issue must be upraised. To that issue there must be a response, which is then communicated in a medium to the public. In this cookbook, the historical context was post World War II trauma and the anticipated family tension. After six years of grueling man slaughter for the selfish desire of power, soldiers returned home to their families. Fathers and husbands came back from war with distorted images of reality, trying to find comfort in their wives and children. The response to this trauma was creating a facade of comfort and perfection through intricate, bold meals and finding ways to sneak in comfort, also known as butter. This cookbook provided women with the recipes to sneak in the butter, cream, and make food more appetizing than the cans of food they had at war.
This cookbook’s intent was to help readers, mostly women understand how to navigate the kitchen efficiently and how to be the wife that managed to mute any problems the family was having. Socially, it explained what women’s roles were supposed to be. Neuhaus explains in his analysis of gender roles and domestic ideology that cookbooks are more than just a set of directions, “As ‘Betty Crocker’ phrased it, women remained ‘first and foremost, homemakers.’…War-time cookbooks, and the discourse that positioned women squarely in the middle of the kitchen, set the stage for postwar cookery books. And war-time deprivations set the stage for postwar appetites.” (Neuhaus) Not only did Betty Crocker’s cookbook satisfy post-war depression through the incorporation of well-balanced, hearty meals, but it also reminded women that their high heels and voluptuous dresses belonged in the kitchen covered with red, white, and blue aprons.
Culturally, Betty Crocker’s cookbook opened up a world of fresh American comfort foods that would later become staples of the American diet. From the appetizers to the vegetable tab, this books coins iconic foods that symbolize our nation. “If I were to design a coat of arms for our country, a pie would be the main symbol. Pie is as American as the Fourth of July. Cakes from every land have come to America… but none so glamorous as the typically American concoction of richly tender layers, crowned with luscious, creamy icing.” (Cakes) Each dish brings a representation of our pride as American citizens; that we historically have had the best food and will continue to for many years.
Betty Crocker’s Picture Cookbook is a piece of rhetoric that has brought answers to housewives and the current culinary dreamers alike, about the basics of cooking and our roles as Americans. Men returning from World War II came home with eyes that would never see the same, hearts that would never feel the same, but their wives were equipped with feeding them the food that would comfort them in the roughest of times. Not only has this cookbook been a significantly useful aid in kitchens across America, it is one of the best selling cookbooks in American history. Glancing through the pages will yield satisfying answers and a brief walk through history.
References
"Cakes; Pies." Picture cook book. Facsimile ed. Minneapolis: Wiley Publishing, Inc. and General Mills, 1998, 1950. 117; 295 . Print.
Horner, J. R. (2000). Betty Crocker's Picture Cookbook: A gendered ritual response to social crises of the postwar era. Journal Of Communication Inquiry, 24(3), 332.
Neuhaus, J. (1999). The way to a Man's Heart: Gender Roles, Domestic Ideology, and Cookbooks in the 1950s. Journal Of Social History, 32(3), 529.